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☆ Dal Is the Ultimate Comfort Food
▼ + stars: | 2024-03-28 | by ( Priya Krishna | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: 1 min

One of my favorite Hindi terms is “ghar ka khaana.” It literally means “home food,” but it also encompasses the singular joy and unfussiness of meals made in your own kitchen — the dishes that remind you of childhood, the ones you won’t often find in restaurants. My quintessential ghar ka khaana? To make dal feels like an alchemical feat, watching the pebbly lentils turn creamy, starchy and golden with turmeric. I love the sizzle of the hot, spiced ghee when it is poured into the lentils, the way that dal envelops a bowl of rice like a hug. The first time I published my mother’s recipes for dal in my cookbook, “Indian-ish,” it felt as if I was letting people in on a secret — a solution to their weeknight dinner woes, courtesy of my ancestors.

Persons: Dal

☆ See a Day in the Life of a New York City Dishwasher
▼ + stars: | 2024-02-23 | by ( Priya Krishna | More About Priya Krishna | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: 1 min

When you’re a dishwasher at Gage & Tollner, there are no slow times. That’s where we found Drevon Alston, who manages the dish pit. While cooks furiously arrange oysters and clams on seafood platters and baste steaks with butter, Mr. Alston and his fellow dishwashers scrub pots, scrape char off grill grates and run stacks of plates up and down the stairs. Mr. Alston dreams of running his own kitchen one day. For now, he sits at the bottom of the restaurant’s hierarchy, performing one of its most vital roles but determined to move up.

Persons: Drevon Alston, Alston Organizations: Gage, Tollner Locations: Brooklyn, Mr

☆ The Elusive Restaurant Group Redefining Korean Dining in New York
▼ + stars: | 2024-02-05 | by ( Priya Krishna | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: 1 min

Even on a chilly Monday evening, the wait at Cho Dang Gol was more than an hour. Crowds of 20-somethings spilled out of the homey restaurant in Manhattan’s Koreatown, where steam billowed from stone bowls of soondubu jigae in a dining room ornamented with paper lanterns and musical instruments. Some hopeful customers peeked inside, anxious to see if a table had opened up. A few blocks away, diners at Hojokban — a sleeker, more modern restaurant that opened last fall — eagerly snapped photographs of a plate of fried-rice wearing an empty Shin Ramyun noodle cup like a hat. A little to the south, Atomix, a Korean fine-dining restaurant with two Michelin stars, was booked solid through the next month.

Persons: Dang Gol, — Organizations: Michelin Locations: Manhattan’s Koreatown, Atomix, Lysée, Korean

Restaurant menus can be surprisingly revealing. Sure, they’ll tell you what you can order at the hottest restaurant in your city on a particular evening. But they’re also a time capsule of culture, reflecting the comforts, habits, flavors and values of an era. We visited hundreds of restaurants of varying styles, cuisines and price points — and left with 121 menus in hand. Together, they provide a snapshot of the distinctive new shape of dining right now.

Persons: they’re, That’s Organizations: New York Times Food

☆ On the Luby’s Cafeteria Line, Every Day Is Thanksgiving
▼ + stars: | 2023-11-20 | by ( Priya Krishna | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: 1 min

In a spacious Houston cafeteria awash in primary colors, diners crowded around big tables and dug into mashed potatoes splashed with a slick gravy, glossy green beans and sticky slabs of pecan pie. The calendar said Oct. 12. But this was Luby’s, where every day is Thanksgiving. “I am a Texan,” said Wunzel Lewis, 71, a regular at Luby’s, which serves Thanksgiving fare year-round as part of its sprawling menu. For the devoted following of this Texas chain, that’s exactly its appeal.

Persons: “, ”, Wunzel Lewis Locations: Houston, Texas

☆ Mass Grave Recalls the Ugly Past of a City Where ‘Life Is Sweeter’
▼ + stars: | 2023-11-08 | by ( Priya Krishna | More About Priya Krishna | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

In 2018, the remains of 95 African Americans — 94 men and one believed to have been a woman — were found during the construction of a technical school in Sugar Land. The discovery drew national news coverage and calls for a proper memorial, research into the convicts’ lives and broader education about convict leasing. The few public testaments to the lives of these people — known as the Sugar Land 95 — include some references on the city’s website and in local museums, and a small exhibit in a Sugar Land school hallway. Sugar Land officials initially offered to move the remains to a city-owned cemetery, but the proposal failed to win public support and they have since dropped out of discussions. Fort Bend County, which includes Sugar Land, set aside $4 million in 2020 to build a park around the remains, but has since reduced that commitment to $1.5 million.

Persons: ’ Organizations: Americans Locations: Sugar Land, Fort Bend County

☆ Chaat Party Has Entered the Party Chat
▼ + stars: | 2023-11-05 | by ( Sam Sifton | More About Sam Sifton | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

Good morning. This took a lot of gas, a lot of time and a toll on our bodies. So we laughed hard when the only good fishing we had came at the very end of the day, a few boat lengths from the marina, across from Four Sparrow Marsh near Mill Basin, Brooklyn. For dinner that night, and for you this evening: a chaat party, essentially a no-recipe recipe that Priya Krishna adapted from one in the 2020 cookbook “Chaat,” by Maneet Chauhan and Jody Eddy. It also served as a kind of rehearsal for the celebration of Diwali, the Hindu celebration of lights, on Nov. 12.

Persons: Sandy Hook, Priya Krishna, Maneet Chauhan, Jody Eddy, Naz Deravian’s, gulab jamun, Christina Morales’s Organizations: Midland, Cabanas, New York Times Locations: Lower, Midland Beach, Staten, New Jersey, Queens, Jamaica, Mill Basin , Brooklyn

How to Win the Restaurant Reservation Game Scoring a table in New York can seem impossible, but may be easier than you think. Meanwhile, with just three weeks to go, we’re still on the waiting list, which has grown to nearly 60 names. 3 DAYS OUT The Realist Andrew Harroz, 39, a lawyer in Oklahoma City, and his fiancée get a notification that a 5 p.m. reservation table is open. Let patience pay off Even if a restaurant is fully booked, ask to put your name on a waiting list. It’s not a great night for romance: A couple whose reservation for two included the note “Considering proposing” leave the restaurant.

Persons: Semma, seatings, Resy, Gracie de Souza, “, ”, Jatin Mallakunta, they’ll, Ash Hashmi, Santo Pesantez, we’re, Andrew Harroz, He’s, Pesantez, Roni Mazumdar, Vijay Kumar, Pandya, who’ve, Mindy Kaling, it’s, Nathan G, Christine, Nathan, he’s, ” Christine, Gillian Garcia, Hugo Rodriguez, Rodriguez, they’re, let’s, Trinity, Garcia, Arjun Kallapur, ’, Rouven Chopra, Jana Frauns, ” Mr, Chopra Organizations: Washington , D.C, American Express, YouTube Locations: New York, Semma, Indian, New York City, Greenwich Village, Resy, New Orleans, Washington ,, Manhattan, Santo, Oklahoma City, Oklahoma, Los Angeles, United States, Frankfurt, Germany

☆ Want to Write a Best-Selling Cookbook? Get on TikTok.
▼ + stars: | 2023-09-18 | by ( Priya Krishna | More About Priya Krishna | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: 1 min

Three years ago, B. Dylan Hollis was an unemployed musician in Wyoming who had never baked anything outside a home-economics class, much less written a recipe. Last month, his debut cookbook, “Baking Yesteryear,” became the best-selling book in the country. Not just the best-selling cookbook — the No. Mr. Hollis has no political career or royal-family drama propelling his book. What he does have is 10.2 million followers on TikTok, where he has been posting cooking videos since 2020.

Persons: Dylan Hollis, ”, Prince Harry, Mr, Hollis Organizations: Penguin Locations: Wyoming, TikTok

☆ The New Reality for College Dining Halls: Dozens of Dietary Restrictions
▼ + stars: | 2023-09-05 | by ( Priya Krishna | More About Priya Krishna | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

The group has run on-campus trainings in how to use an EpiPen, and hosted discussions among students with allergies. Ms. Auerbach and Mr. Bajaj are already in contact with students at several other campuses to set up new chapters. “Colleges as a whole need to do more to support food allergy education and awareness,” Mr. Bajaj said. “The goal overall is to spread the club all over, to give a voice to food allergies.”Follow New York Times Cooking on Instagram, Facebook, YouTube, TikTok and Pinterest. Get regular updates from New York Times Cooking, with recipe suggestions, cooking tips and shopping advice.

Persons: “, Kethan Bajaj, Julia Auerbach, Auerbach, Bajaj, Mr Organizations: Northwestern, College, Food Allergy, Colleges, New York Times, Facebook, YouTube Locations: Northwestern

☆ The Best Hamburger Helper You’ve Ever Had
▼ + stars: | 2023-08-27 | by ( Priya Krishna | More About Priya Krishna | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

Sometimes, you put a recipe out into the universe and genuinely wonder: Will anyone care? It’s the scary, vulnerable side of developing recipes, and I felt it when I first published this recipe for homemade Hamburger Helper (above) in 2019. In many ways, the recipe felt like a left turn, what with all the American cheese and bacon. And Hamburger Helper is so deeply retro — would people still be interested in cooking it? put a sharp accent on the dish, making it feel more restaurant-y than supermarket-y.

Persons: Sam’s, Mark Rosati Organizations: Shake

“They were the type to drink beer, not get rowdy or do shots,” he said. When he ran over, he saw that one man’s face had turned yellow and his eyes had rolled back in his head. From behind the bar, Mr. Foehrkolb grabbed Narcan — a nasal-spray version of naloxone, a drug that reverses opioid overdose — then tilted the man’s head back and pushed the plunger to release the dose. Mr. Foehrkolb, still jarred from the experience, returned to his shift. “Not so much at a quiet place where people are just playing games in a corner, casually drinking.”

Persons: Kevin Foehrkolb, ”, Foehrkolb, Narcan, “ Organizations: Kent House Irish Locations: Towson, Md

☆ How Cooking Videos Took Over the World
▼ + stars: | 2023-08-07 | by ( Priya Krishna | Umi Syam | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +9 min

Cooking videos have never been more persuasive, more inescapable, more addictive, more entertaining. How Cooking Videos Took Over The WorldVideos on TikTok with the #foodtok hashtag have been viewed more than 64 billion times. But cooking videos are not only an unavoidable part of being online — they’ve also infiltrated physical spaces. That is what makes these videos so engaging.”Today, there isn’t just one way to make a successful cooking video. But the evolution of cooking videos represents a broader shift: Algorithms and artificial intelligence increasingly drive everyday behaviors and can stifle creativity.

Persons: they’ve, Julia Child, Joyce Chen, ”, Ashley Rose Young, —, John Gara, … TikTok, Covid, Sunny Xun Liu, “, Bennett, Hetal Vasavada, soothingly, Althea Brown, Frankenfood, Gara, Bacon, Ahmad Alzahabi, Liu, Vasavada, that’s, they’re Organizations: Department of Motor Vehicles, Smithsonian Institution, Food Network, “ East, YouTube, Facebook, Stanford Social Media, “ Locations: New York City, United States, TikTok, Denver

☆ New Zealand’s Real Fruit Ice Cream Gets an American Makeover
▼ + stars: | 2023-07-20 | by ( Priya Krishna | More About Priya Krishna | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

In New Zealand, one of summer’s great pleasures is known as real fruit ice cream: a scoop of vanilla blended with fruit in a machine that produces an airy, barely sweet twirl with a buttery texture. In the United States, it’s just beginning to catch on in cities like Boston, Portland, Ore., and Austin, Texas. But along the way, the no-frills treat has undergone a full-bore makeover. At most American shops that sell it, real fruit ice cream can be mixed with graham crackers and Oreos; drizzled with hot fudge, caramel or chamoy; and enjoyed atop a chocolate- and sprinkle-dipped cone. (“It’s almost healthy” is the unofficial slogan at Nico’s Real Fruit Ice Cream in Portland, Ore.)

Persons: it’s, graham Locations: New Zealand, United States, Boston, Portland, Austin , Texas, Portland , Ore

☆ The 20 Best Texas Barbecue Restaurants From the New Generation
▼ + stars: | 2023-07-03 | by ( Brett Anderson | Priya Krishna | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: 1 min

Clockwise from top left: pork in the pit at Valentina’s; Pitforks and Smokerings, in Slaton, Texas; a tray of barbecue at Pitforks and Smokerings; the chalkboard menu at Pitforks and Smokerings; a platter of smoked meat at Charlie’s, in Beaumont; Evan LeRoy and Sawyer Lewis, co-owners of LeRoy and Lewis, in Austin. Credit... Jessica Attie for The New York Times, JerSean Golatt for The New York Times, JerSean Golatt for The New York Times, JerSean Golatt for The New York Times, Jessica Attie for The New York Times, Sarah Karlan for The New York Times.

Persons: Evan LeRoy, Sawyer Lewis, Lewis, Jessica Attie, JerSean Golatt, Sarah Karlan Organizations: Austin . Credit, The New York Times Locations: Slaton , Texas, Pitforks, Beaumont, LeRoy, Austin .

☆ The Crispiest Chicken Cutlets You Can’t Mess Up
▼ + stars: | 2023-06-05 | by ( Margaux Laskey | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +2 min

For something equally lovable but a bit less hands-on, try Eric Kim’s ritzy Cheddar chicken breasts. They rely on Ritz crackers and are baked in the oven, which means no Jackson Pollock oil splatters to clean up. Speaking of vegetarians: Priya Krishna calls vegetable pulao “a weeknight staple in many Desi households” because it’s wildly flexible. Not only is it less messy, but I find it’s easier to get an even thickness when the slippery meat is neatly contained. You can do this in advance, then roll or fold up the sheets — meat included — and store in the fridge until you’re ready to bread and fry.

Persons: Eric Kim’s, Jackson Pollock, there’s David, Priya Krishna, ”, Natasha Pickowicz, Guy Organizations: Ritz Locations: Victorian England

☆ For Diners With Deep Pockets, Dallas Is the New Dubai
▼ + stars: | 2023-05-22 | by ( Priya Krishna | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

At this open-air shopping center in suburban Dallas, they valet-park their Porsches, sport Yves Saint Laurent handbags, flit in and out of Audemars Piguet and pause for brunch at Sadelle’s, the fancy new deli from Major Food Group in New York. Even the sugar for coffee comes to the table in tiny Le Creuset Dutch ovens. Dallas has long had a reputation for living large, an image built on oil money and the wide swaths of ranch land displayed on its namesake TV series. These companies are giving Dallas the kind of attention they’ve previously lavished on tourist playgrounds like Las Vegas and Miami. Major Food Group opened a Dallas branch of its maximalist-Italian restaurant Carbone last year, and says it has even larger ambitions in the city.

☆ How One of New York’s Last Bagel Masters Rolls Thousands by Hand
▼ + stars: | 2023-05-19 | by ( Priya Krishna | Cc Allen | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: 1 min

Without Celestino García, New Yorkers might go without some of their most beloved bagels. Bagels can now be made by machine, so there aren’t many masters of the form left who can roll them by hand. But many bagel enthusiasts swear by the handmade approach, insisting that it produces a fluffier, chewier bite. I spent a day with Mr. García as he went from shop to shop, casually rolling thousands of bagels at a time. And I learned how he became one of the most sought-after people in the New York City bagel business.

☆ 15 Hours on the Job With a Bagel Roller
▼ + stars: | 2023-05-19 | by ( Sarah Bahr | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

Mr. García, 58, cranes his neck to look for the B3 bus, which will take him to the Avenue U subway station. Each episode is about 10 to 20 minutes long and spotlights a day in the life of someone like Mr. García, who is one of the city’s last bagel rollers. Mr. García is used to the early call time. For members of The Times’s Food team, it was a little tougher to get out of bed, though well worth it. The team likes to slowly introduce crew members to their subjects throughout the day of the shoot.

☆ The Restaurant Service Charge Isn’t Going Anywhere
▼ + stars: | 2023-05-15 | by ( Priya Krishna | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

Here’s a familiar restaurant scene: Dinner is over, the plates have been cleared and the server discreetly drops the bill on the table. But there’s something less familiar at the bottom of the check — a service charge, tacked on with little explanation. If not, should I leave more money? Is it rude if I ask my server any of this? “You shouldn’t have to ask,” said Chloe Lynn Oxley, a project manager in Washington, D.C., who dines out frequently and — like many diners — is often bewildered by the fees.

☆ The Essential (and at Times, Elusive) Power of Mustard Oil
▼ + stars: | 2023-04-20 | by ( Priya Krishna | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: 1 min

When the chef Asma Khan was growing up in Kolkata, India, she learned that there was very little mustard oil couldn’t do. A dab of the oil could cure them all. “You feel it coming through your nose,” said Ms. Khan, the owner of the Indian restaurant Darjeeling Express in London. It is all coming from the mustard oil. It is like a living oil.”

☆ Corn, Long a Broadway Side Dish, Is This Show’s Main Course
▼ + stars: | 2023-04-13 | by ( Priya Krishna | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

Outside the Nederlander Theater last Saturday night, hundreds of eager ticket holders lined up for the new Broadway musical “Shucked.” What exactly was the plot of the show? “I just know it is about corn,” said Roe Woolf, who was visiting from Nashville. “Who doesn’t like corn?” said Danielle Chamberlin, who had come in from Clayton, N.J.Food has long been a staple of Broadway musicals. The in-house merchandise store sells key chains, magnets, hats and tote bags all adorned with corn. The bar serves Corn Nuts, candy corn and corn-themed cocktails like Honk if You’re Corny and Corn to Be Wild.

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